OTHG – GIRONA VACATION

Just back from a solo ride this morning.  John and Ira are climbing 1,000-metre Rocacorba and Russ is exploring à pied.  No climb for me, alas, after a four and one half hour ride out to the Mediterranean coast and back yesterday.  I’m very satisfied with the 340 km. I’ve ridden these past five days since we arrived in Serinya.

I rode part of yesterday’s route this morning, out to Terradelles and back, through farmland and small villages, some of whose names I remember, others not: Centenys, Vilavenut, Balliners, and Vilademuls.  I wonder where they got their names and when.  Each one features an ancient church.  Everything is quiet as I cycle through narrow streets; hardly a soul is about.

 

I listen for sounds of activity and hear little, except for the odd farm tractor, a barking dog, or a crowing rooster.  I smell freshly spread hog manure, plus the sweet odour of figs, fallen from a roadside tree and crushed by passing traffic.  I see what looks like an early-morning mist rising from the ground, and realize just soon enough to close my mouth that it’s a cloud of insects!

I take my time going up and down the hills and round the endless turns, not like yesterday when there were four of us in a row.  The back roads I’m riding are hilly and curvy, and pass through gorgeous farm country where no land is wasted.  The road is well paved, but barely wide enough for two vehicles to pass.  No one seems in a hurry, a good lesson for those of us continually rushing to get to God-knows-where.

The farms are like the villages, orderly and well cared for.  People here take great pride in their properties.  I stop to take a few pictures along the way of things that will remind me of these special places.  As I turn around and come up the steep hill to Terradelles, I watch a paddock-full of horses lazily munching on a stack of hay.  I pedal past a van parked on the side of the road; the appliance repairman talking to a woman.  Next, I come upon two men changing a tire by the side of the road. 

 

My legs begin to feel soft and I try not to push too hard.  For once, I tell myself, try to just take it all in; enjoy the moment.  I remember now that the ride back is mostly uphill, and notice that it’s getting hotter by the minute.  I’m glad I brought two water bottles this morning.  I begin to feel the dull pain of the saddle sores I developed yesterday (Note to self: bring own saddle next time!).  I see my shadow in front of the bike, urging me on.  I keep climbing until I reach the small village of Centenys; I know it’s flat or downhill from here.

When I get back, I find new guests arriving at Mas Pelegri, being checked in by our hosts, Fiona and Garrett.  Their son, Eli, is playing in the yard.  Russ, John and Ira are still out somewhere, enjoying the day as much as I am, I’m sure.  We’ve been here six days and, tomorrow, I’ll drive Russ and John to Barcelona for their flight home.  While there, Ira will pick up Liz, and I’ll drop them off to their lodgings in Girona. 

The week has gone by very fast.  We got here on Saturday and had a nice meal, served outdoors under a beautiful evening sky.  The next morning, Garrett got us fitted with bikes, not the best, but adequate.  He gave us a map for a 75-kilometre ride and we set off for Banyoles.  From there, we hit our first hills and rolled eventually into Santa Pau, ready for a strong coffee.  (The latter is reason enough in itself to visit Europe.)

 

From Santa Pau, the road features a five-kilometre downhill run to Olot, a fair-sized city.  We stopped for water and some fresh figs and made our way through the city and back toward Serinya, arriving here mid-afternoon, just in time for an afternoon nap by the pool.

On Monday, we were tempted by the climb up Mare de Déu del Mont but thought better of it, deciding instead to repeat the previous day’s ride in reverse.  It proved to be a good decision.  The next morning, a day off from riding, we drove up the mountain in question and noted the wisdom of our choice; the descent is just too narrow and dangerous.  We made our way to the Mediterranean coast and stopped at a small resort town called Llança, definitely a place I’d like to return to.

Yesterday morning, armed with copies of Garrett’s infallible maps (NOT!), we headed for the coast through beautiful countryside, eventually finding the sea at the resort town of Sant Pere Pescador.  From there, we pedaled south along the coast until we reached L’Escala, our lunchtime destination.  The seaside town is a tourist haven, but has a certain traditional charm to it nonetheless; another place to go back to someday.

 

Fortified with a bit of food and some strong coffee, we headed back toward Serinya, hoping to get there by the shortest route.  We got off to a good start, but took a turn that sent us a bit too far north.  Eventually, we figured out how to get back to Mas Pelegri by the same way we’d come out; we’d done 130 km., a pretty good day.  For supper, we had our best meal to date: steak and sausages, potatoes, tomatoes with mozzarella, fresh bread, and a damn fine chutney prepared by Russ from dates, pears and peaches, with a pinch of curry thrown in for flavour.

Which brings us back to today, the end of another enjoyable week for OTHG.  May there be many more to come!

And now for my nap…