FLORIDA

Old Man Winter held us in his grip for as long as he could!  We left home at 6:00 am on December 28 - in a snowstorm.  I forked over my $45.50 to cross the Confederation Bridge, secure in the knowledge that, thanks to the good offices of our intrepid Senator Percy Downe, I’d never have to pay again!  By the time we got to the Port Elgin roundabout, things were looking grim - drifting snow and not a plow to be seen - and we considered stopping in Moncton until the weather cleared.  

But the forecast said an intensive system would pass through New England the next day.  What to do?  By the time we hit Magnetic Hill, things were better, a little slush on the Trans-Canada, but nothing too serious.  I carefully picked my way through the slower traffic.  I’d thought we’d be lucky to make Hartford, CT, that first day, and split the trip into three more or less equal segments.  But we decided to go another three and one-half hours to Wilkes-Barre.

Morning came too early after our long first day, and it looked none too promising.  Sleet was on the menu, for at least the first hour.  Our objective for day two was Savannah, GA.  That would mean a relatively easy day three, with an ETA of mid-afternoon in Fort Myers.  Alas, as the poet Robbie Burns wrote: "The best-laid plans of mice and men gang aft agley!"

Things had cleared up nicely as we neared Charlotte, NC.  We’d experienced a 25-degree change in temperature in the space of eight hours!  Then, the traffic jam to end all traffic jams!  Bumper-to-bumper for 40 km or so until it finally broke.  Then, more of the same as we drove through Charlotte at rush hour.  After another hour or so, we’d had enough and called it a day.

Day 3 started rainy, but traffic was light.  For a while, at least.  Not long after we rejoined Interstate 95, we were down to a crawl again.  And it was that way for most of the day.  Who would have thought that so many people would be on the roads on December 30?

We arrived in Fort Myers around 8:00, found our condo and unlocked the door, only to find somebody was already there!  Could it get any worse?  Due a communications mix-up, the owner’s son was staying a few days in Fort Myers.  So we staggered into another hotel room, hoping it would be our last for a while.

Next morning, we drove to Sanibel Island and spent a good part of the day there.  The island is an up-scale haunt for the rich and for well-heeled vacationers, reminding us of Hilton Head Island, SC.  But the place was so crowded that we couldn’t find a parking spot at any of the beaches.

After loading up on groceries at Costco, we hauled our belongings to the condo, spent the New Years Eve getting things in order, and were both in bed by 9:00.  Over the next few days, we explored downtown Fort Myers on foot, locating our favourite hangout, Starbucks.  One day, we cycled on Pine Island, a funky, toned-down version of Sanibel.  Another, we pedaled along broad boulevards with nice bike lanes.

We’d wondered how big a bite the plunging Canadian dollar would take out of our budget.  Well, the cheapest gas we bought on the way was about $0.60/litre Canadian; here it’s about $0.65.  Compare that to the $0.90 it costs at home.  Groceries are definitely cheaper here, especially fruits and vegetables, but accommodations are way more expensive because of our low dollar.  Bottom line, enjoy the weather and forget about the exchange!

I met up with a group of local cyclists, the Caloosa Riders, soon after we arrived.  Most of them are here for the winter, although there are a few year-rounders.  I’d be about average in age for the group.  Many riders are over 70, and still in very good shape.  Some like to ride hard - very hard - often in the 35 to 40 km/hr range.  The fastest I clocked was 49!  That the terrain is flatter than the Miscouche swamp makes it easy to pedal aggressively.  Since we ride early in the morning, wind is not usually a factor.  

I’d planned to ride 400 km while here but had met that goal after only eight days!  All told, I racked up about 1,200 km while Elva put in a very respectable 500 or so.  Only bad weather prevented us from doing more.

Elva joined us for several rides and, despite some initial trepidation, became quite accustomed to the routine.  Riders here are generally quite experienced and know how to ride in a group.  Everyone uses flashing lights, front and back.  We’d gotten our own, from Santa, and so fit right in.

Mid-month, we participated in the Tour de Cape ride in nearby Cape Coral.  Elva did the 50 km circuit and I did the 100 km.  It was a tough day, with winds gusting to 50 km/hr, but we did it.

The condo we’re staying in is centrally located and close to downtown Fort Myers.  It’s a modern building, quiet and well equipped, and folks here are friendly.  The city actually has a historic downtown.

Other places we’ve visited are indistinguishable from one another - just a long, continuous strip of malls, condos, fast food joints, and gas stations.  Nothing to make you want to stop and take a stroll.  We’ve been to the motorcycle show on the main drag, and a festival featuring all things ‘bacon’; some of them good, some hardly fit to eat!  There’s a wonderful exhibit of outdoor art, featuring 25 metal sculptures by a Columbian artist.  All part of the experience.

Point is, there are things to do here and the place has a nice, gentle buzz.  Between cycling, walking, beaching, exploring, and going to the cinema (Concussion, The Revenant, Brooklyn, Room), we’ve kept quite busy.  We took a few road trips to visit relatives and friends in Largo and Fort Lauderdale, and to do a little exploring in nearby Naples.  The routine here reminds us of Island living in the summer, and it’s a hell of a lot better than shoveling snow.

One fine Saturday, we parked the car and walked across the bridge to Fort Myers Beach.  There were more people on the beach than I’ve ever seen, anywhere.  More than Union Corner, or even Red Rock Beach in its heyday!

It didn't take us long to figure out that Fort Myers is the "Poor Man's Naples".  The mansions we saw on our day trip to Naples make Mary Jean Irving's place look like a baby barn!

And the guy putting up this tar-paper shack ain't on EI, that's for damn sure!

A Spaniard by the name of Juan Ponce de Leon explored and named Florida in 1513.  It’s said by some that he was looking for the ‘fountain of youth’, a spring supposed to restore anyone who bathes in or drinks its waters. 

He didn’t find the elusive fountain, but I’ve seen proof of it here with my own eyes: the guys I’ve been riding with these last couple of weeks.  The oldest one I know of is 81!  He rides the 55 km route at least twice a week.  Another guy looks older still.  Elva and I regularly see 80-year-olds out for brisk walks.  Those I’ve spoken to, including Cousin Noëlla, swear by the restorative powers of the Florida winter.  I now believe it!  

None of us has the power to stave off death but we might, through our choices, delay the aging process.  I think we'll be back!